Champagne :: Like none other

I love Champagne.

The millions of tiny bubbles, the aroma, the effervescence, the taste- it all comes together, and somehow does something to me that makes me very happy. (I'm sure the alcohol has nothing to do with it...) If offered the choice, I'll always take Champagne over regular wine, and I'd much rather sip bubbly for hours than drink cocktails- even if they're Cosmos made by Carrie herself.

So when I got the chance to go to Champagne, France last year I jumped on it. Go to the birthplace of my favorite beverage? The home of Veuve Clicquot, Moet & Chandon, Tattinger, Krug, Louis Roederer, Perrier-Jouet, Piper Heidsieck... are you kidding? Of course I'll go! (And do I have to come back???) Over the course of five days, I learned more about Champagne (both the region and the drink) than I ever thought possible. If you're interested in the region as a destination (and you should be because it's fabulous!), check out Getaway to Champagne :: Where bubbly begins and ends in the Travel section. To learn a bit about the beverage itself, keep reading!

A bit on the bubbly

For more than three centuries, Champagne wines have been an integral part of French culture. From the days when the kings were crowned in Reims to present day royal events, sporting triumphs, family celebrations, and even opening events and contract signings around the world, Champagne has, is, and always will be the star sipper.

Sparkling wine is made in many places around the world. Champagne, however, comes solely from the Champagne region in the north of France. The people who live in Champagne (in fact, all of the people of France) are extremely protective of the word- and labeling of- Champagne, and with good region. Legally, the only true Champagne in the world is sparkling wine that's produced according to long-established methods, following strict legal guidelines, using only grapes from this region. And although rules regarding when farmers can harvest their grapes, how long they have to crush them, the quantity produced, etc. may seem overly stringent, those rules are the very reason why Champagne is unlike any other sparkling wine in the world. (And as the people of the region would argue- and I would certainly agree- the best.)

The vineyards that are allowed to supply grapes for Champagne have been legally defined since 1927, and only three varieties of grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) can be used. There are standards for pruning, height, spacing, and density of the vines, and all harvesting must be done by hand- on days specified by the government and ruling body. This- as well as other rules- ensures that only the highest quality product carries the name of Champagne, and only then can it then be labeled AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin).

Champagne has never been more popular; in 2006, 360 million bottles were produced, and 320 million were sold. These numbers are coming dangerously close to one another, since Champagne can't go directly from the grape to the table- it needs to ferment and age for at least 15-months, and for excellent Vintages, up to six years. (Currently there are about one billion bottles aging in cellars at all times.) So why can't they just crank up production? Oh boy...

Champagne is not the easiest beverage to produce. Unlike regular wine which ages once, for a long time, in a barrel and is then bottled and sold, Champagne is aged twice, with seemingly a dozen complex- and delicate- processes throughout. (One of these processes involves freezing only the contents of the neck of the bottle, then literally popping that piece of ice out, but more on that in a minute...)

Following the second fermentation, each bottle also gets a slight turn- every day. Turning, now mechanized, used to be done entirely by hand (before repetitive motion injury lawsuits I'd imagine), and most of the large houses still keep a single turner on the payroll, if only to maintain tradition.

Add to that the lengthy list of laws and regulations on where Champagne grapes can be produced, how much can be harvested each year, and who can make wine that's called Champagne, and you can start to imagine why good bubbly isn't cheap! It's that complex manner of production and same set of rules however, that makes Champagne so wonderful!

Understandably, Champagne can be a bit off-putting to those without technical knowledge of the growing and production practices- which I'm guessing is most of us. When it comes down to it however, the most important thing is to remember is to go with what you like- don't let anyone tell you that one Champagne is better than another. If you like it, drink it! If you want to get into an in-depth conversation with a winemaker or impress your friends however, there are a few things you can learn that will blow them away...

The winemaking process

The grapes

Only three varieties of grapes are allowed in the production of Champagne; two black (what we call purple) and one white (green). Of the black grapes, Pinot Noir gives Champagne its strength and body while Pinot Meunier is responsible for the roundness and fragrance of the wine. Chardonnay- the white grape- provides Champagne with the floral and mineral overtones, and imparts it with a subtle finesse...

The winemaking process

Making Champagne is no easy task. After harvesting the grapes, they're carefully pressed, producing a juice (called must) that's stored in open stainless steel or oak barrels, where yeast is added. The conversion of sugars in this first fermentation results in still wine. After that process is complete, the wine is blended with other wine bases, creating a blend (cuv?e) that matches the house style. Some cuv?es contain as many as 70 different base wines! The wine is then placed into the bottle in which it will eventually be sold.

At this point, a mixture of sugar, yeast, and old wine, known as the liqueur de triage, is added in order to induce the mousse- the bubbles. The bottle is closed with a crown cap and laid horizontally in a cool, dark cellar.

The second fermentation takes at least three months, which produces the tiny bubbles that Champagne is known for. After the second fermentation is complete, the wine continues to age for up to three years; finer Champagne may age in the bottle for more than six.

After aging is complete, the winemaker removes the dead yeast cells from the bottle through a process called "riddling." Basically, the bottles are stored upside down, allowing the cells to settle in the neck of the bottle. The bottles are then "disgorged," an incredible process in which the necks of the bottles are frozen, creating a small ice plug at the top of the bottle that traps the sediment. Then the caps are removed the pressure releases the ice- which holds the sediment- and the bit of wine lost is replaced through a process called dosage, basically adding back a small amount of sugar dissolved in wine. Finally, the cork is added, and voila!

Grand-Cru, and Premier-Cru

For most Americans (and in fact, many French), the terms on the label of a bottle of wine can be a bit confusing, something that's not made any easier by the fact that various designations- Grand-Cru and Premier-Cru among them- don't necessarily mean the same thing in Burgundy as they do in Alsace or Champagne. The terms 'Grand-Cru' and 'Premier-Cru' refer to (and designate) specific vineyards or areas of land; specifically the potential of a given site to produce favorable grapes based on history and reputation. (It's one of those things that French winemakers will argue to the end of the earth, no matter what scientists, biologists, geologists, etc. have to say...)

In Champagne, Grand-Cru is the highest ranking, and only 17 of the 300 villages in the region measure up to this level. Premier-Cru is the next tier (which is still extremely remarkable), and 43 villages are designated as such.

Vintage vs. Non-Vintage

Vintage Champagnes are produced from the grapes of a single harvest. As a result, producers will only produce Vintage wine in exceptional years, resulting in years in which no Vintage Champagnes are produced (or only that from smaller houses). Vintage Champagnes are more distinct and usually have a stronger character.

Making up about 90% of all Champagne produced in the region, Non-Vintage (usually labeled "NV," or Multi-Vintage) simply means that the Champagne contains a blend of wines made from grapes from several years. Non-Vintage Champagne represents the unique style of each house, as it allows the master blender to create a Champagne that's unique to his or her house.

Special Cuv?es

Whether Vintage or NV, Special Cuv?es are made from the cr?me-de-la-cr?me grapes and make for the most subtle and distinctive wines.

Blanc de Blancs

Blanc de Blancs style Champagne is popular as an ap?ratif and ideal for light courses; seafood, salads, sushi, etc. It's made solely with Chardonnay grapes, easy to drink, and usually has a light, soft, dry taste.

Blanc de Noir

Blanc de Noir on the other hand, is made with either one or both of the black grape varieties. It's normally deep yellow-gold in color, more full-bodied than Blanc de Blancs, and pairs well with full-flavored foods like meats and cheeses.

Ros

Ros? Champagnes come in every shade of pink and are original because of both their flavor and color. There are three ways of producing Ros?. The first- and easiest- method is by simply blending in a bit of locally produced red wine to impart a bit of color. This method is discouraged- and in fact illegal- in most regions in France, although it's still allowed (although not very common) in Champagne.

The second method is known as the "skin contact" method, used when ros? wine is the primary product. In this case, black grapes are crushed and the skins are allowed to remain in contact with the must for a short period of time- usually two to three days- before the grapes are pressed and the skins discarded (rather than left in contact throughout the fermentation, as is the case with red wine making). As the skins contain much of the strongly flavored tannins, this results in a ros? with more character, similar to a white wine.

The final- and most difficult- method of creating ros? is called saign?e, literally "bleeding." This process is used when the winemaker wants to impart more tannin and color to a red wine, and removes some pink must at an early stage in the process, known as 'bleeding the vats.' The juice removed is then fermented sepearately, producing ros? as a by-product of the red wine.

Ros?s make excellent ap?ratifs, but also pair well other pink foods- salmon, ham, turkey, strawberry tarts- for every course of the meal.

Demi-Sec, Brut, Brut-Naturale, Doux

The terms Demi-Sec, Brut, Brut-Naturale and Doux refer to the amount of sugar added after the second fermentation, which ultimately determines how sweet the Champagne will be. And while you can find Brut-Naturale and Doux Champagne if you look hard enough, for all intents and purposes there are really two styles of Champagne: Brut and Demi-Sec.

In French, sec means "dry" and demi translates as "half," so Demi-Sec is literally "half-dry." And although it may seem counter-intuitive, Demi-Sec Champagne is actually "sweeter than brut" (which translates simply as "dry"). The slight sweetness of Demi-Sec makes it perfect for pairing with- or taking the place of- dessert. It's also the common choice for toasting, usually when only about half a glass will be consumed, as it can be a bit sweet for some when drunk in quantity.

When drinking Champagne with a meal, Brut is usually the preferred choice; 85-90% of Champagne exported from France is Brut.

For those of you looking for the details, here's a breakdown: Brut-Naturale (Extra Brut) is the driest, with 0-6g of sugar per liter; Brut has less than 15g; Extra-Dry (something mainly found in the states) has 12-20g; Sec (Dry) has 17-35g; Demi-Sec 33-55; and Doux has more than 55 grams of sugar per liter, which is considered a dessert wine and is the equivalent of liquid candy if you ask me.

M?thode Champenoise

The Champagne making process is a complicated, intricate, and (in France) highly regulated process that the people of Champagne have carefully developed and perfected over centuries to create the unique bubbly called Champagne. While some producers of sparkling wine not from Champagne still use the term "M?thode Champenoise," in most countries it's illegal, just as it's illegal to call sparkling wine that's not from Champagne "champagne."

Unfortunately there are still a few rogue countries and producers (usually the crap you'll find on the very bottom shelf that's not worth the glass it's bottled in) who still use the terms "champagne" or "m?thode Champenoise" in an attempt to pass off sparkling wine as the real deal. If you see either of these terms on a bottle that's not produced in the Champagne region, run- don't walk- to the nearest real bottle of bubbly.

Houses vs. Growers or Producers

There are 30 major brands in Champagne, and more than 100 official Champagne Houses in the region. In total, these houses own only about 10% of the land but produce two-thirds of all Champagne, and about 90% of the Champagne exported. (Champers represents about 3.5% of the total wine produced in France.)

In addition to these large houses, there are more than 15,000 smaller producer-growers, or vignerons. These smaller producers then sell their grapes (or the wine produced from their grapes) directly to one of the larger houses, or to a growers' association or cooperative, who then sells to a larger house. Sometimes the grower, co-operative, and or association also make their own Champagne. Complicated enough for you?

Cheers

Storing

Champagne is more sensitive to light and temperature than most other wines. For longer-term storage (a few months to a few years) bottles should be kept in a cool, dark room. If you know you'll be drinking it in the next month or so, you can keep it in the refrigerator.

Chilling

Champagne should be served chilled, but not too cold. The ideal temperature is about 45-50 degrees F, which can easily be accomplished by putting a bottle in a bucket of ice and water for 20 minutes, or in the refrigerator for three hours. Never, never, NEVER put a bottle of Champagne in the freezer to "chill it quickly;" this is begging for a disaster. Instead, put the bottle in a bucket, surround it with ice, and fill it with cold water. It will be chilled and ready to drink in 20 minutes.

Serving

To open a bottle, cut the foil and remove the wire cage ("muselet") that protects the cork. Grasp the cork in one hand and gently turn the bottle with your other hand, holding it at the bottom; the cork will easily come off by itself. Try to avoid the loud pop (and resulting foamy mess) that's been irresponsibly linked to bubbly. Although it may look dramatic in movies, in reality it's both tacky and wasteful.

Flute vs. coupe

Although Champagne has always been served chilled, it wasn't always served in the tall, slender glass that we know today as the 'Champagne flute.' In fact it was first served in a cone-shaped glass and later in a shallow 'coupe,' said to have been modeled after Marie Antoinette's breast. (I've seen pictures and I'm not buying it...) A flute that's slightly tulip-shaped (versus one with vertical sides) is preferred, as it allows the bubble to fully express themselves and release the aromas of the Champagne.

Bubbles

The tiny bubbles in Champagne occur naturally, the result of the second fermentation traditionally brought about by the warming of Champagne caves in the springtime. This powerful process is the reason why Champagne, unlike other wines, is aged in the bottle rather than the usual wooden casks.

Contrary to what you may have heard, the size, speed, or number of bubbles in a glass are not indicative of the quality of the Champagne, but rather the result of tiny flaws on the surface of the inside of the glass. In fact, some glassmakers today actually etch lines on the bottoms of their flutes because machine made glasses are often too "perfect" and result in surfaces that are too smooth to produce a lot of bubbles. Likewise, some dishwashers are so powerful that they can leave the inside of Champagne flutes too smooth as well; you should always wash your fine glassware by hand.

The Bottle

Champagne bottles are designed especially for protecting their joyous contents- and for the process used to create it. Champagne bottles are stronger than regular wine bottles, because they need to allow for the powerful second fermentation, and resulting carbonation, without the risk of exploding. The dark color common in Champagne bottles protects the wine from the light.

Most Champagne comes in two bottle sizes, the standard 750ml. bottle (which is the same as a regular bottle of wine), and the larger Magnum (equivelent to two standard bottles. Champagne is available in many more bottle sizes however, and not just the little Demi-Bottles or Mini-Bottles (one-half and one-quarter of a regular bottle, respectively) that have recently become popular for picnics, cocktail parties, and gay events of all shapes and sizes.

Larger bottles (listed by size, from the equivalent of four to 16 bottles) include the Jeroboam, Rehoboam, Methuselah, Salmanazar, Balthazar, Nebuchadnezzar, and finally- at 32 bottles- the Primat (which, in my mind at least, is perfect for a dinner party!). If you're dying to memorize these to impress everyone at the bar, a "useful" mnemonic is "Mary Jane Really Makes Splendid Belching Noises, Perpetually."

Photo :: Various sizes of Moet & Chandon bottles.

Labels

Like any good wine, Champagne is as diverse as the houses that create it. Champagne labels always carry the name of their producer, a public affirmation that each wine is unique. You'll also find most of the information listed above, whether it's Vintage or Non-Vintage, the Cru, style, etc.